4/26/09 ● Not Enough of Martinique

As the season progresses, cruisers are beginning to move on. Some (like us) will stay on their boats through the summer and we may meet them farther on down island. Others are having their boats hauled out and will return to their homes in North America or Europe. Before we proceed south, we decided on one more visit to Martinique. Having met the tax deadline in Rodney Bay, we weighed anchor and sailed to Cul-de-Sac du Marin. This is another popular cruising destination for boaters because of its sheltered anchorages and the many, many boat services available here. Rather than anchor near Marin among hundreds of other boats, we chose a spot Bill remembered from his earlier trip here. It was tricky getting into but once there, very rewarding. Surrounded by mangroves and fairly isolated, we had the anchorage virtually to ourselves and enjoyed peaceful days, skinny dipping and quiet starlit nights. We also enjoyed the company, once again, of Heiner and Marleyne on La Buena Vida, anchored near Marin. At their instigation, we rented a car and had a wonderful day touring all of Martinique.

Before our return to Rodney Bay we wanted to visit Ste. Anne. With Pam in the rigging to guide us through the shoals, we carefully maneuvered out of our secret lagoon and spent to lovely days exploring Ste. Anne. One enjoyable night we dined on a beach front terrace, watching the sun set over Diamond Rock and the rugged southern coastline of Martinique.

Photos: On the way up to Mt. Pelee; Songbird & Cows in the lagoon; Rest spot on way up Mt. Pelee; Mt. Pelee in the clouds; l'Aieron, at the base of Mt. Pelee; the folks on S/V La Buena Vida - Heiner & Marleyne; Depaz rum distillery; Pam & Bill in front of 100-year-old rubber tree (too big to capture w/our camera; Songbird in her private lagoon anchorage.

4/13/09 ● St. Lucia

We hoisted sail and made the passage to St. Lucia on 23 March arriving in Rodney Bay and, after attempting three locations, settled into an anchorage off Pigeon Island. There, we were delighted to find Cat Tales, Dawn and Laurie, a Canadian couple we’d last seen in Bermuda. On 26 March, Bill ventured ashore and hired a mini-bus for trip to the airport at the south of the island to meet Alex and Faith. Right on schedule, they popped out of the departure lounge, all joy and smiles. What a welcome site. They found the bus ride back up the island fascinating, especially the winding road through the rain forests in St. Lucia’s mountainous interior. By 6pm, they were installed in their small, luxurious hotel – a stones-throw from Rodney Bay beach. They had four nights there and enjoyed sun, the hotel’s pool and the beach so much that they stayed an extra night. We hung out with them and enjoyed it too, frequently dining at the nearby restaurants. One of the highlights of the stay here was the climb to the top of Pigeon Island, exploring the ruins of the fort and the gun batteries.

By March 31st, it was time for the four of us to sail south to Soufriere. I rained almost the whole way down, becoming heaviest as we picked up a mooring in front of the bat cave (a deep crevice in a high rock wall that is home to thousands of bats – cool!). Alex and Bill immediately dinghied ashore to fine a cure for Alex’s raging ear infection. The pharmacy being closed, they were directed to the local hospital. There they found an emergency room solely occupied by a doctor and two nurses. Alex received immediate attention – including a large shot of penicillin to his backside – for a total charge of $19 and was given a prescription for a week’s supply of antibiotics.

The next morning we left the bats to moor at a quieter part of the bay near local fishing boats. There, we were frequently entertained by the pigs kept by the locals on the beach.

The most spectacular aspect of Soufriere is its proximity to the Pitons, rising to three thousand feet from the edge of the bay. One night we taxied up to a restaurant with breath-taking views of both Petit and Grand Pitons and the harbor shinning below. As we sat at our dinning table, it made for a memorable sunset. With sadness, we said goodbye to Alex and Faith on April 2nd as they boarded their taxi bound for the airport at Vieux Fort. We sure hope their visit was as much fun for them as it was for us.
We returned to Rodney Bay and spent ten, or so, days hanging out with fellow cruisers, many of whom for some reason, were Canadians. Pigeon Island, near our anchorage, happens to be home to a cool little restaurant, Jambe des Bois. We enjoyed going there, especially on the weekends when they have live music. One Sunday night, there was a great little jazz combo playing that somehow found out that Pam sings. She was asked to sit in and, (Bill says) was a huge success. As we left, they followed us out and made us promise that she would return, and next time, do a larger set (!).

Photos: Soufriere - pig resting after hard day's play; Soufriere fishing village; atop Pigeon Island - Alex, Bill, Faith & Pam; Alex & Faith at Hotel Ginger Lilly; view from Alex and Faith's hotel room; atop Pigeon Island; Faith takes on Pigeon Island; lunch time at a Soufriere beach pig farm.

3/22/09 ● Welcome to France

We arrived in Ste. Pierre, on the northern side of Martinique on 18 March. Although one must observe local laws regarding immigration and customs, it’s easy in Martinique. Check in at Ste. Pierre is done on a computer at the local internet café – no fees. Welcome to France!

St. Pierre is a small fishing village located at the base of Mt. Pelee, an extinct volcano almost a mile high that devastated the town in 1902, killing all of its inhabitants, save two, one of whom was a condemned prisoner. Today, it’s a nice place to anchor and reprovision (baguette, cheese and wine). This we did, as well as wash clothes at a Laundromat (something hard to find in the islands). Our efforts to reprovision, however, were still being frustrated by the general strike, even though it had been over for weeks.

Once chores were done, we endeavored to see some of the island’s interior, decided to mount a campaign to climb Pelee. For a modest fare, we hopped a local bus which was to take us to a trail leading to the mountain’s summit. Our plan was thwarted by weather. Mt. Pelee was covered in clouds and mist and we were told that the trail was closed during rain so we spent the afternoon in Morne Rouge, an almost alpine village, located on a ridge (or morne) with spectacular views of the sea and washed by refreshing misty breezes.
After three nights, we headed south, stopping at the lower corner of the island in picturesque Grand Anse D’Arlet. Owing to it’s proximity to the island’s major city, and its beauty, this is a popular recreation site for Martiniquans. We shared the anchorage with three 3-masted schooners and numerous cruisers. The water was quite clear with great snorkeling but, with the much anticipated visit nearing of Bill’s son and daughter-in-law, Alex and Faith, our stay in this spot was limited.

Photos: Relaxing at local cafe in St. Pierre; children's sailing training regatta; house with flowers; fishing boats on beach; beach at Anse D'Arlet; sunset view of Anse D'Arlet from our boat.